Balenciaga has officially named Martine Rose as its new creative director, marking a historic shift for the luxury fashion house. The London-based designer, renowned for her cult-favorite menswear label, will assume the top role on November 16, succeeding Pierpaolo Piccioli, who announced his departure less than 24 hours prior to Rose’s appointment. In accepting the position, Rose becomes the first woman to lead Balenciaga in its 109-year history. She is also only the second Black woman to head a major European fashion house, joining Grace Wales Bonner in leading Hermès. [2] [1]
Rose’s appointment signals a strategic move by parent company Kering to reconnect Balenciaga with modern culture and community, an approach that previously fueled the massive success of former creative director Demna. Rose is no stranger to the house; she served as a menswear consultant for Balenciaga from 2015 to 2018 during Demna’s tenure. During that period, she helped engineer key elements that defined Demna’s era, including the brand’s signature sportswear, logo experiments, and oversized XXXX silhouettes. While she returns with full creative reins, her design philosophy remains distinctively her own: imperfect, sporty, and grounded in real-world subcultures. [2] [1]
“It is a true privilege to be appointed creative director of Balenciaga, a house with an extraordinary heritage and a fearless creative spirit,” Rose said in a statement. “Balenciaga has been shaped by remarkable creative talents before me. I am committed to honoring this legacy and look forward to creating the next chapter in this rich and beautiful story.” [1]
Kering CEO Luca de Meo emphasized the strategic fit of Rose’s appointment. “Martine Rose embodies this spirit with a fresh, fearless and deeply contemporary vision,” de Meo stated. “Her connection to the new generation and her instinctive understanding of culture bring a new dimension to the house.” [1]
Rose founded her eponymous label in 2007, building it into one of the most influential brands in British fashion. Her collections are deeply rooted in London’s diverse cultural landscape, drawing inspiration from soccer fandom, nightclub culture, and the everyday wardrobes of city dwellers. Her work is characterized by subverted silhouettes, where suits are stretched or squeezed, tracksuits transform into tailoring, and loafers become mules. Known for her menswear focus, Rose also designs womenswear with a tomboy edge, featuring items like camo carpenter jeans and asymmetrical miniskirts, while playing with proportions in knitwear and outerwear. [1] [2]
Her influence extends beyond her own label through high-profile collaborations with Nike, Clarks, Supreme, Stüssy, and Tommy Hilfiger. Rose’s designs have been worn by cultural icons such as Kendrick Lamar, Lewis Hamilton, and Timothée Chalamet. Notably, the blue leather varsity jacket Rose designed was worn by Kendrick Lamar to perform at the 2025 Super Bowl, a look that garnered significant attention for its sharp, edgy aesthetic. Rose frequently cites her Jamaican-British heritage and her love for London’s subcultures, from ravers to football fans, as primary inspirations for her gritty, reality-rooted design POV. [1] [2]
Although rumors of Rose taking over Balenciaga had been circulating in fashion circles for weeks, the announcement confirms her transition from a behind-the-scenes influencer to the head of the enterprise. Balenciaga has not yet specified when Rose’s first collection under her sole direction will debut, but industry observers are closely awaiting her vision. Rose’s appointment marks the culmination of her long-standing relationship with the brand and elevates her status within the global fashion hierarchy. [1] [2]
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